Skincare formulation
step by step

Do you have a cool or ground-breaking idea for a product or entire product line that you want quoted? Formulation development is the best, and sometimes only, way to exact your vision.

Formulation is the development of samples and a formula to meet the specific needs of your brief. Good Chemistry* formulations are developed to be innovative and of premium quality depending on the needs of your brief.

Good Chemistry* are small, specialist team of experts who work closely with you to design the blueprints for iconic and innovative health, beauty and wellbeing products. Developing a customised or bespoke product formula enables you turn your creative ideas into reality. You will draw on our deep research and development expertise, with specialities in microbiome, skin barrier, natural preservation, novel botanical ingredients and biotechnology.

You will own the formula, a set of samples and have complete freedom to manufacture and use as you wish. You will have complete confidentiality, outright ownership and our ongoing professional support.

Here's our step by step process for developing a formula in partnership with us -

formulating timeline

Typical timeframe: 2 to 3 months

Step 1: Onboarding and forming a brief

Before we get started, we'll sign a confidentiality agreement, so any details shared between us are confidential.
Next is to create a product brief for our team. A brief will outline your requirements, product form, target customer, packaging and more. Don't worry - if you don't have all the details, we can work with you to confirm the brief! We'll also ask you to provide benchmark products and samples of your packaging, if applicable.

STEP 1 CHECKLIST:
* Contact our team for a copy of our Confidentiality Agreement to sign
* Create a product development brief
* Provide samples of benchmark products and packaging
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request copy of agreement

create a formulation brief

photo of women clients meeting

Step 2: Meet our chemist & form an agreement

A one on one discussion with our chemist to confirm your product brief, once we've received your benchmark samples. We'll talk through your brand vision, possibilities, product differentiation, budget and the initial scope and any limitations of brief.

We'll use the benchmark samples as guides to how you want your product to look, feel and perform. How similar the product will be will depend on other elements of your brief, how organic or natural you want to be and other specifications or requirements. Where organic or strict natural compliance is required, it is good to be aware that there may be some limitations to performance or skin feel or implications on cost and compliance.

We'll work to provide you with a cost estimate for development and we'll move to signing a Product Development Agreement. A 50% deposit is required before moving to Step 3.
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STEP 2 CHECKLIST:
* Discussion with our team to confirm the brief
* Signing of a Product Development Agreement
* Payment of a 50% deposit
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photo of woman client on the phone

Step 3: Research and raw materials
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We'll firstly source the raw materials and technical information we need to get started. We'll also set up a shared project planning board, to enable shared tasks and track progress.

TIMELINE: Allow 2-4 weeks for research and raw materials and information to arrive. If we need to import, or extract in our lab, any special ingredients this could be longer.

STEP 3 CHECKLIST:
* Allow 2-4 weeks for raw materials to arrive
* Please send raw materials specific to your development if you have them
* Materials are charged to the client at the cost price (inc delivery).

Cosmetic chemist with extractor

Step 4: Lab stage one
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In Lab Stage One, we conduct rounds of designing the formula, building and testing lab samples and refining the formula. We'll then send you the first sample for your evaluation and feedback before we develop further.
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TIMELINE: Allow 1-2 weeks once materials have arrived, typically 30 days from commencement.
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STEP 4 CHECKLIST:
* Samples sent for evaluation and feedback.
* Please be prompt and detailed with any changes required.

Cosmetic chemist in lab

Step 5: Lab Stage two

In Lab Stage Two, our team will apply any changes to the formulation and samples you've requested and re supply samples for evaluation and sign off. Up to 3 rounds of samples (in sample size 30-50ml) in total are provided.

Indicative stability testing of samples in undertaken in Lab Stages One and Two.

TIMEFRAME: 1-2 weeks, may be longer if additional materials are required.
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STEP 5 CHECKLIST:
* Any additional formulation changes and samples supplied.
* Sign off the formula.
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Cosmetic chemist with jar of product

Step 6: Approvals & plan manufacture

The last step is approving and signing off on your formula - congratulations!
Ingredient list, formulation, method of manufacture and supplier details are sent to you (full payment required before sending if not already paid).

Next step, is to plan your testing and manufacture.

TIMEFRAME: Within 2 business days.
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STEP 6 CHECKLIST:
* Approvals and any final payment.
* Plan your next steps for testing (full stability and microbial) and manufacture. Our team can advise.
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Ready to get started?

Get in touch to get an approximate costing on your product development or simply get started by completing a confidentiality form and submitting a product brief - a full estimate will be provided as part of a development agreement.

What happens after development?

Assistance after development is optional although stability testing is highly recommended. Our post formulation options include:

PIF and dossier (required when exporting)
Product testing - preservative efficacy and stability testing
Claims support and marketing story
(permitted claims, supporting evidence)
Label compliance (compliance to NZ/AU/US/EU)
Product evaluation including TEWL, sebum, hydration, irritation
(specific to your product performance)

Please contact us if you would like to proceed with any of these options once your cosmetic formulation is completed.