skincare formulation
Your skincare or personal care formulation is the blueprint of your products and far too valuable to leave down to chance. We work with clients in New Zealand and Australia to design and craft powerful formulations that get the results your customers love.
the cosmetic lab for start ups & businesses ready to scale
Do you have a great idea for a product or entire range? Formulation development is the best, and sometimes only, way to exact your vision.
Formulation is the development of samples and a formula to meet the specific needs of your brief. Good Chemistry* formulations are developed to be innovative and of premium quality depending on the needs of your brief.
Good Chemistry* are small, specialist team of experts who work closely with you to design the blueprints for iconic and innovative health, beauty and wellbeing products. Developing a customised or bespoke product formula enables you turn your creative ideas into reality. You will draw on our deep research and development expertise, with specialities in microbiome, skin barrier, natural preservation, novel botanical ingredients and biotechnology.
You will own the formula, a set of samples and have complete freedom to manufacture and use as you wish. You will have complete confidentiality, outright ownership and our ongoing professional support.
What we formulate
We formulate a range of personal care products including:
SKINCARE
Cleansers, toners, gels, serums, moisturisers, serums, treatments, cosmeceuticals, lotions, scrubs, masks, ointments, balms, eye products, baby products, mens products, whitening, anti-aging, lip balms.
BATH AND BODY
Body washes, hand wash, hand cream, bubble bath, bath oils, body lotions, deodorants and antiperspirants.
HAIRCARE
Shampoo, conditioner, treatments, serums, styling products, dry shampoo, aerosols, straightening products.
WELLBEING
Health foods and supplements.
HOMECARE
Essential oils blends, deodorising and room sprays, diffusers.
PETCARE
Shampoo, conditioner, sprays and lotions.
SPECIAL REGISTRATIONS AND STANDARDS
Certified natural, certified organic, clean beauty standards and sustainability standards.
WHY CHOOSE US?
Transparency on what you get as part of the formulation development process, we provide detailed information so you can make an informed decision before proceeding.
We are an independent agency — you own the formula and method. You're not tied down to a particular manufacturer, quantities or brand of raw materials — we're in your corner.
We specialise in innovative natural formulas. Our team not only includes cosmetic chemists but naturopath and health practitioner, bringing strengths in herbal medicine, nutrition, physiology and wellbeing.
Our R & D is focused on microbiome, reducing TEWL, skin barrier, natural preservation, novel botanical ingredients and biotechnology with a special interest in addressing skin concerns.
We exist to create positive change for people and planet — we are committed to clean, green and sustainable.
We offer options to suit all budgets from bootstrapped start ups to established brands.
Ready to take the first step?
Let's do this! Start by reading our step by step guide to formulation and when ready, create your product brief and book an initial discussion.
faqs
frequently asked questions
Do you formulate clean and vegan products?
Yes, our philosophy is focused on natural, vegan and clean. all our Private Label range is clean, petroleum free, vegan and cruelty free.
If you want to meet specific clean standards, like Sephora, please include that in your product brief for your custom formulation.
How do I get started? What is the process?
To get started, we firstly need a product brief from you, or the concept developer, and a signed confidentiality agreement.
Once we've agreed to formulate this with you, we need signed Development Agreement and a 50% deposit.
For an outline of the full process, visit our 'Formulation, step by step' page
See 'What testing do I need' page for more information
Do you work with brands outside of New Zealand and Australia?
Yes we do! With high standards on innovative and natural skincare and beauty formulation, plus excellent value for money (especially with NZD exchange rates), we are an attractive partner for clients in the USA, Australia, Singapore and the UK.
How much does it cost to research and develop a new skincare or beauty product?
Successful cosmetic companies should be looking to invest up to 10% of their anticipated 3 years sales on R&D per product, which includes formulation and sample development, stability testing, pilot batches and regulatory checks including claims and label compliance. To get the sales results, you need to invest in your brand and new products!
If you are going to do R&D, starting with custom formulating, your costs will depend on the formula you choose, the raw ingredients that comprise your formula as well as the testing, packaging and labelling.
To give you an idea of the full costs to budget for research and development (R&D) in NZ or Australia:
Formulation development: $2,500 - 4,000
Lab batch (for stability, PET and evaluation): $800 - 1000
Label compliance and claims support: $500 - 1500
Stability testing: (e.g 9 months accelerated and 30 months real time): $2500 - 3000
PET: $900 -1500
Total R&D: $7,000-11,200
** This represents 6-8% of anticipated sales = good investment.**
This budget also allows for additional funds to be allocated towards a pilot batch and scale up costs and a small proportion to consultancy if you need assistance.
If you don't want to invest in good R&D for your brand, we strongly suggest going Private Label, as these products have already been through a stringent R&D process, allowing you to focus your investment on brand and marketing.
Not everyone has the budget and commitment to undertake R&D, which is why we highly recommend Private Label, or customising Private Label if you want to start small and easy with minimal investment.
Can I use your packaging or need to source my own?
Private label
We offer white, modern, recyclable packaging in our 'retail-ready' private label range that you can make your own with creative label design.
Custom formulation
Yes you'd usually need to source your own packaging for custom formulation.
The type of packaging you need will depend on the product form (i.e. cream, gel, lotion) and application needed (e.g. pump for body lotion). If you know what product form and application you need, ideally source the packaging before we begin formulating. Or you can wait to discuss what you need with our chemist.
We'll need to have the sample product set up in your packaging before we begin indicative stability testing, as part of our formulation development process. You can choose to have bespoke packaging designed and manufactured for a truly unique shape and design; customise an existing packaging design (colour, dispenser etc) or buy 'off the shelf' and ready to fill from local or overseas suppliers. We can also assist with brand and label design.
Can I work with a chemist to turn my homemade formula into a professional one ready for manufacturing?
Yes, we're happy to work with you to review and optimise your formula. We can help get you out of the kitchen and into the lab and manufacturing by creating a replicable, stable and effectve formula, ready for scaled manufacture, and help with a range of tests.
You may have developed a recipe, made it as a hobby, and then want to scale up. Or found a formula or recipe online and make it for the business. Often there's some great improvements we can recommend. Our chemists will note just because it's online doesn't mean it's ever been professionally developed or tested!
We can work with you to optimise the formula, putting forward improvements (or significant changes if they are needed) and ensure that it is:
- safe (the right type and level of preservative, chelators etc)
- is stable under a range of environments and conditions (won't oxidise, go off or separate)
- has a shelf life of 2-3 years
- active ingredients are bioavailable and effective (formula gives these the right support/conditions to work)
- optimal performance and sensory aspects - it feels wonderful to use, performs well and does what it says it will and smells good.
I've got my custom formulation do I really need to do stability testing?
Yes! Have a read of our FAQ above why you need to invest properly in R&D for your brand.
While we're responsible for ensuring we prepare a formula that will be theoretically stable over 2-3 years, the only sure way to know if it is actually stable is to conduct stability testing to at least 30 months real time. Stability testing is a way of ensuring your product will have the anticipated shelf life using practical methods. Is something likely to go wrong? In theory, no. Can something go wrong? In practice, unexpected results can occur. We can't know this without it being tested.
Ensuring stability in practice is your responsibility, so you should get this done on all formulations. It should be part of your planned R&D investment and helps prevent product recalls, which would be your responsibility. If you are planning to export product or have a secondary sunscreen product (i.e. moisturiser with SPF) you will also need to conduct stability testing as the shelf justification for these products is required.
See 'What testing do I need' page for more information
Do I need label, claims support and marketing compliance check?
Custom formulations:
Unless you have someone who can do this for you, you should get us to assist you with this. We ensure you label, including ingredient list, is compliant, as well as ensuring you have the evidence, and appropriate wording for any marketing claims.
Private Label:
We provide the information to put on labels on if marketing in NZ, Australia or Europe. We also provide examples of marketing claims. If you wish to market your products in other jurisdictions, please book a consultation to ensure everything is compliant.
