Fatty acids play a significant role in skincare formulations, offering a range of benefits for skin health and appearance. These essential components are integral to the structure and function of the skin's barrier, helping to maintain hydration, elasticity, and overall skin integrity.
In skincare formulations, fatty acids are often sourced from natural oils such as coconut oil, jojoba oil, and olive oil, among others. They can also be derived synthetically or through processes like saponification of triglycerides.
Vegetable and seed oils have two types of many types of fatty acids, but two are the primary focus for skincare - linoleic acid and oleic acid.
Alpha linoleic acid (an omega-3) and linoleic acid (an omega-6) are both considered "essential fatty acids" because the body cannot produce them on it's own. Oleic acid is produced by the body, so isn't considered "essential".
Knowing the difference between fatty acids and how they interact with skin can help you choose the right product depending on your skin type.
Types for fatty acids for formulations
Here's a breakdown of the types of fatty acids commonly used in skincare formulations:
- Saturated Fatty Acids: These fatty acids have no double bonds in their carbon chain and are solid at room temperature. They contribute to the stability and texture of skincare products. Examples include:
- Palmitic Acid: Derived from palm oil, it provides emollient properties and helps to stabilize formulations.
- Stearic Acid: Often sourced from vegetable oils like cocoa butter and shea butter, it acts as a thickening agent and improves the texture of products.
- Monounsaturated Fatty Acids: These fatty acids contain one double bond in their carbon chain and are typically liquid at room temperature. They offer moisturising and nourishing properties for the skin. Examples include:
- Oleic Acid: Found in oils such as olive oil, avocado oil, and sweet almond oil, it provides hydration and helps to soften and smooth the skin.
- Polyunsaturated Fatty Acids (PUFAs): These fatty acids contain multiple double bonds in their carbon chain and are also liquid at room temperature. They offer various benefits for the skin, including moisturization, anti-inflammatory properties, and antioxidant protection. Examples include:
- Linoleic Acid: Derived from oils like safflower oil, sunflower oil, and rosehip oil, it helps to regulate sebum production and is beneficial for oily or acne-prone skin.
- Alpha-Linolenic Acid (ALA): Found in oils such as flaxseed oil and chia seed oil, it has anti-inflammatory properties and helps to maintain the skin's barrier function.
- Omega-3 and Omega-6 Fatty Acids: These are essential fatty acids that the body cannot produce on its own and must be obtained from external sources. They play a vital role in maintaining skin health and are often used in skincare formulations for their moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.
- Omega-3 Fatty Acids: Found in oils such as fish oil, algae oil, and flaxseed oil, they help to soothe and calm irritated or inflamed skin.
- Omega-6 Fatty Acids: Found in oils like evening primrose oil and borage oil, they help to maintain the skin's moisture barrier and promote healthy skin function.
When formulating skincare products, it's essential to consider the specific properties and benefits of each type of fatty acid and select those that are best suited to the desired product performance and target skin concerns. Additionally, understanding the source and stability of fatty acids is crucial for ensuring the quality and efficacy of the final formulation.
High Linoleic acid oils
If you are treating blemishes or oily skin, you might think you need to use only oil-free products, but not so fast! Research shows that people with acne have low levels of linoleic acid in their skin’s surface lipids. Adding these particular fatty acid-rich oils topically may be the best way to address this problem.
Linoleic acid (C18:2) is an omega-6 essential fatty acid not produced by body. It has anti-aging, barrier protective, soothing, and balancing properties, and is most suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.
- The highest linoleic acid ratio is found in black cumin, evening primrose, hemp, grapeseed, guava seed, passionfruit, papaya seed, prickly pear, pumpkin seed, red raspberry, rosehip, safflower, sunflower, soybean and wheat germ oil.
- Borage, castor, cherry kernel, chia, kiwi seed, pomegranate and sesame oils contain high linoleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
High oleic acid oils
Oleic Acid (C18:1) is an omega-9 fatty acid, very hydrating and ideal for drier skin. Oils higher in oleic acid can help with dry and sensitive skin, reducing skin sensitivity. They work effectively to reverse the inflammatory response in various layers of the skin.
- The highest oleic acid ratio is found in almond, apricot, avocado, carrot seed, hazelnut, macadamia, macula, olive, palm, sea buckthorn and canola oil, as well as cocoa, mango and shea butter.
- Argan, abyssinian, jojoba, rice bran and tamanu oils contain high oleic acid but have more balanced profiles.
Other important fatty acids in skincare
Lauric Acid (12:0) - antibacterial and anti-acne properties.
Found in babassu, coconut, date seed, and palm oil.
Myristic Acid (14:0) - cleansing and lubricating properties.
Found in babassu, palm, and coconut oil.
Palmitic Acid (C16:0) - soothing, hydrating, anti-aging and barrier-protective properties.
High in baobab, brazil nut, macadamia, palm, peanut, rice bran, sea buckthorn and neem oils as well as mowrah butter.
Palmitoleic Acid (16:1) - an omega-7 fatty acid with anti-aging, healing, and rejuvenating properties.
Found in macadamia and sea buckthorn oil.
Stearic Acid (C18:0 ) - rich and hydrating properties but occlusive and tends to clog pores for acne prone skin.
Found in cocoa, coconut, mango and shea butter as well as neem and tamanu oil.
Ricinoleic Acid (C18:1) - an omega 9 fatty acid with antibacterial and cleansing properties.
Found only in castor oil, which makes castor oil quite unique in skincare (and underused!)
Punicic Acid (C18:3) - an omega 5 fatty acid with repairing, anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties.
Found only in pomegranate oil.
Alpha-Linolenic Acid/ALA (C18:3) - an omega 3 and an essential fatty acid that helps skin barrier health.
Found in black currant, perilla, flax/linseed, pumpkin seed, and soybean oil.
Gamma-Linolenic Acid / GLA (18:3) - an omega 6 fatty acid that soothes inflammation and promotes ceramide synthesis.
Found in black currant seed, borage, and evening primrose oil.
Eicosenoic Acid (20:1) - an omega 9 with soothing emollient and permeation enhancing properties.
High in jojoba and meadowfoam seed oil.
Behenic Acid (22:0) - restorative, very moisturising and conditioning properties, especially for hair.
Found in karanja and mooring oils as well as included in a range of emulsifiers.
Erucic Acid (22:1) - an omega 9 with a silky/silicone like feel for light hydration.
High in abyssinian and broccoli oil, moderate in jojoba and meadow foam seed oils.
Benefits of fatty acids in skincare formulation
Fatty acids are categorized based on their chain length, which influences their properties and functions in skincare products.
- Moisturisation: Fatty acids act as emollients, forming a protective layer on the skin's surface to prevent moisture loss. They help to replenish the skin's natural lipid barrier, keeping it hydrated and supple. Fatty acids like linoleic acid and oleic acid are particularly effective in moisturizing the skin.
- Anti-inflammatory properties: Some fatty acids, such as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, possess anti-inflammatory properties. They can help calm and soothe irritated or inflamed skin conditions like eczema, dermatitis, and psoriasis.
- Antioxidant protection: Certain fatty acids, including linolenic acid and gamma-linolenic acid, exhibit antioxidant properties. They help neutralize free radicals generated by UV radiation and environmental pollutants, thereby protecting the skin from oxidative stress and premature aging.
- Regulation of sebum production: Fatty acids play a role in regulating the skin's natural oil production. Linoleic acid, in particular, has been shown to help balance sebum levels in oily and acne-prone skin, reducing the risk of clogged pores and breakouts.
- Enhanced penetration of active ingredients: Fatty acids can improve the penetration of other active ingredients in skincare formulations. By enhancing the delivery of key nutrients and beneficial compounds into the skin, they maximize the efficacy of the product.
- Skin barrier repair: Fatty acids contribute to the repair and maintenance of the skin's barrier function. They help strengthen the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and enhancing the skin's resilience against environmental stressors.
